Noz Update - M1:The Epic Saga Concluded - Stuttgart
Mood:
a-ok
Now Playing: Believe by the Chemical Brothers
Topic: Noz Update
I can't seem to figure out why all my quotation marks are coming out as upsidedown question marks... Please forgive.
When we last left our hero (that's me), he was debating on sleeping before Blogging his latest adventure, or just staying up all night and then going to go prance about naked with the Germans in the Bathouses of Stuttgart...
*** 4.5 hours later ***
I slept. Turns out lying in bed blogging is way too much like doing nothing to keep me awake. Before sleeping I went for breakfast. T'was the day after clubbing, and all through the hotel, not a creature was stirring, except for the help. I found it funny that the staff kept cheerily saying "Good morning" to me, when I had already been up for 24 straight hours (not counting a nap on the train), delivered a talk in a city 400km away, and been to two bars and a club.
There was only one other guy in the restaurant. He was this 40-something, 1950s USA throwback army dude in FULL fatigues, complete with shaved head and a flag stitched on his arm. I wanted to launch into some serious "Hey, MAN! I won't be held down by The Man, Man! You man man, Man? I mean, you get me, Man?" but I refrained. "Maybe held down by a man, but the man? No way!
Anyway. 3.5 pages of Blog so far and I've not even gotten to the club!
So -- M1 is the kind of club the Lord goes to when he wants to shake his Almighty G(-d)-thang.
From their website:
"The M1 isn't just a club - it's a legend, a life-feeling, and a leading figure in the electronic music scene. This is where trends are born. The M1, a project, that works without hoopla. The M1 wants to be the best club in the world."
I walked in and expected Snoop Dogg, Christina Aguilera, David LeChapelle, or the GZA to turn a corner at any second. About 5 or 6 girls in there actually looked and dressed like Christina too. It was 70-80% guys, as it seemed that girls below a B-cup or carrying more than 10 pounds extra weight were driven away at the door with a shit-covered plank of wood... unless they had released a hit RnB single. This left the ratios slanted.
It was the most fo' real Hip Hop night I've ever seen. These were not the kids of Surrey out to hear Top-of-the-Pops hits. The outfits, the dancing, the grinding hips, the mad bounce-bouncing, the arm pumping, the posturing, the pouting -- everything was so "from da hood", or for me, just the stuff of music videos. Interesting enough, like the most modern hip hop videos, it was more cross-cultural, and came complete with the little Asian girls wearing next to nothing dancing in sunglasses on top of boxes, white guys who knew the words to every song and danced and posed as well as anyone else, and miscellaneous and sundry bad-asses. Where ma dogs at? At M1, apparently.
Turns out Snoop Dog is playing there soon.
Now I have to check out of the hotel, but when I get back to my PC, a little about how and why M1 made my European all-time top-ten clubs list.
Back.
So, at 4pm I'm in Dortmund delivering a speech about how a customizable, native-XML authoring tool will enable the market-demanded applications of content management and re-use, in-context collaboration, translation memory, and mutli-channel publishing. I walked through a case study of a Fortune 500 that leveraged structured content to re-engineer business processes, thus better integrating engineering with technical documentation and achieving significant return on investment and reduction of time-to-market. At 4am that night, in a building complex named after that same company (I was in "The Bosch Area"), I've got my shirt tied around my waist and I'm dancing to hard house on top of a booze and sweat slicked bar beneath the streets of Stuttgart.
Whattafuckinday...
So, the crowd! Wow! They were like party incarnate! Everyone was spraying vitality and beauty with every toss of their sweaty shoulders. Everyone knew the words, and just about everyone was out to sleep with everyone else, once they'd gotten a good 6 hours of dancing in. And they could dance! Dancing Germans!
The outfits were the best. 6-foot guys with t-shirts that went to their knees. Dog tags, backwards baseball caps and assorted sports gear, teeny tiny skirts, and chains, chains, chains. Where do they find this stuff?
I also witnessed a shocking ritual that I don't think many folks not from da hood get to see. I was recently in a heavy metal club, and I noticed that dancing to heavy metal has sort of evolved past the throwing of body checks and elbows to loud music. It's now a more martial-art-esque thing with actual moves. More like capoeira. I think this is due to the steady cross-polination in the last 10 years with hip hop beats, instruments, and vocal styles. Heavy metal has become more funky.
Here, I was on the other side. I was watching "proto-moshing". It was like people were dancing in the primordial ooze. Hip hop has become faster and harder, and the bouncing of yore has become body checking, and so, the elbows have come up, and the moshing begun. I watched a tiny thin little woman grab and shove another girl of similar size into some behemoth that was stomping about the floor trying to overbalance other guys. Someone nailed me backwards into an innocent bystander who caught me and threw me back into the pit.
I thought, "Wow. Thanks for the memories." Truly, this was no place for me to go, "Watch it, I get lower back pain!"
There is a variation though. At points, they bunch up and link arms, and bend at the knees, and in groups of 5-10, sway and jump such that they become one gigantic set of shoulders bounding up and down the beat. It's quite exciting to watch.
The crowd was incredibly diverse, representing all nations, gathered for the unifying purpose of gettin' down. Most were the definition of hip. Some were the definition of hip, but ensnarled in the youth-condition: So much sex-drive, so little time.
With the ratios of testosterone to girls being what it was, the evening was a fascinating look into the hell that is being a straight man in one of these places. I look at them, watching them watch these svelte, full-breasted, girls and young woman throw thighs over each other and grind into poles and railings, and I can see their anxiety. The frantic darting eyes darting around, and the body language that says, "Ok... ah... I can't just leap on them... um... fuck... What are my alternatives? Maybe I can... leap on them? Wait... no... shit!" They're enslaved. Either convince one of these girls you are in the top two percentile of the 300 men in this club, or no action for you! Penis go home! No birfday eggroll!
As one who does quite enjoy having sex with woman, I feel lucky to have a deep, deep, (deep) appreciation for silky breast and booty shaking, yet enough distance to not feel trapped by this "lock and key" relationship structure. Duh, having a girlfriend helps, but I always felt the do-or-die "Gotta get some" of straight-boy-land was a sad state of affairs. Also, I find the girl-on-girl thing totally lame and unappealing. I think it's the dancing equivalent of passing out cards that say, "Please, oh please, like me!" The worst is when pairs of them that aren't actually good dancers tail you around trying to upstage because they think that you're stealing their spotlight by having wigglier hips than they. Maybe try screwing some of these guys instead of just teasing them into a frenzy -- that'd loosen up your lumbar, Honey!
So, I'm in the Wu-Tang Clan's basement, and it's all good. I'm having a blast. Then, around 2am, I hear a pounding House beat, and I see across the club another room has opened up.
Valhalla.
I walked across the club into what looked like a chill-out area, but in fact had louder harder music playing than the main room. I found out later that the DJ was a regular at one of Ibiza's largest club venues. I hate House music, but this guy was amazing! It was like House, only, good! The songs built to these ridiculous pounding climaxes where there were no options except to scream your head off and jump around waving your arms in the air. The synthesizers shrieked with vicious low-res brutality, and the beat pumped through side-chained compressor units such that each kick seemed to punch out all other sounds from the mix, exist for a moment on its own, and then the entire song would flood back in to have its revenge. Repeat at 135bpm at play at volumes that inspire you to run around the room screaming "I'm suffering permanent hearing loss! I will never experience sound the same way again due to the damage that is occurring right now! WoOOoooOO!!" and you have a recipe for a par-tay.
In the House area, there were far more girls, and it seemed that they had all reached back through time and wrenched their outfits out of Bangles and Miami Sound Machine videos. They matched their off-the-shoulder tops and denim skirts with mangly, punky, hair-dos, big hoop earrings, and an array of bleach and dying options. Girls just wanna -
they just wanna-ah-ah. They were all pretty seriously hot. The club seemed to have trolled Spain and Sweden collecting those hot chicks that hang around with gay men because they can't stand the constant stream of propositions they get in straight clubs. You know the ones I mean...
In the main area of M1, it was a Hip Hop night, in the House room, it was Sexually Ambiguous night. Immediately my Gaydometer started buzzing. After taking a better look around at the wife-beaters, tank-tops, cropped hair, mobile hips and rippling 6-packs, the needle snapped in half from the shearing force, and the dial burst in a super-nova of pink gaydometer transmission fluid. Still, the whole thing seemed so out of place that I assumed they must be straight.
Wait, as long as we're on the topic sexual ambiguity, the crowd in the main room was a bit funny too and I've got to tell you about this one guy. He was in head-to-toe sports/hip hop gear, in bright orange. He was the same hip-hopper kinda guy as the rest, but he seemed a bit too good looking, and his clothes a bit too bright and clean. On sight, my gaydar activated and began to hum contently. We were singing along to the same song doing the obligatory "Yee! I'm jammin' in da club, G!" faces at each other, and he invited me to come dance on the same platform as him (the platforms were pretty big and fit some 5 people each). I declined -- my platform had a pole on it, and you can't beat that with a bat.
I assumed he was being so friendly because he was impressed with the two twenty-something girls that were engaging me in a dance off. They were of the contrived nearly-naked girl-on-girl variety previously mentioned, so I just sort of danced by and found myself a new spot. I lost sight of Orange Dude until about 20 minutes later, when he passed by on the ground in front of my platform (his shoulders were at my knee height). Again, we exchanged the wordless communication of enthusiastic clubbers. He gave me the "Dude in the White Shirt!" gestures and I gave him the "Dude in the Stupid Hat!" reciprocations. Then he gave me the "I'm going to grab your penis!" gesture, and I thought, "Whoa! Dude, that wasn't in the manual!" He just reached up and in a playful footballer-smack-on-the-butt kind of way and decided to shake hands with Mr. Happy. Maybe this is normal in Germany?
This was the only mildly "pink" thing to happen to me until I was summoned by the thump-thump of House music. It was as if I'd walked into or Buddies in Bad Times in Toronto, or Heaven or G-A-Y (only with better music) in London. As I said, Gaydar was off the charts, yet logic and history dictated that faggy house nights and urban hip hop nights were mutually exclusive phenomenon. It's like finding a secret club where cats, dogs, lions and zebras all go to shake it until the sun comes up. So weird!
I spent quite a while here dancing with the beautiful people. I've opened many a dance floor in England, where they're all madly putting away alcohol and avoiding being the first one to start dancing. Here, everyone was dancing, and when it got so hot that in desperation I eventually took off my shirt, and it was like I'd started a tidal wave of cotton. Shirts started coming off guys all over the floor. I also discovered that there was a stairwell, sort of "hidden" at the far end of the bar in a corner. That led down to yet another room. Here there was much more fake smoke and much less light. People were dancing up on top of the bar. These two guys were madly making out with each other on top of the bar while one stood supporting himself with two dance-poles to keep himself upright, and the other basically tried to dislodge him with the aggression of his tongue and mouth. They had a girl with them at one point and I can't really remember if she got in on the action, but either way, on a tiny little bar, she had a front-row seat. It was so "highschool".
Now, Noz has seen some pretty shameless displays in his time, but these guys were really amazing. Not just the guys making out in between bouts of dancing on a 5-foot bar, but the guys who were jumping up on the couches and whistling, yelling, and grinding their hips at their friends to the music dancing in unison like a chorus line. There was one small group of friends that I remember in particular that were so free with their narcissism that they would seem to be trying to seduce themselves while dancing. They'd smile and wiggle at their reflections while they danced. It was a circus. One guy -- who admittedly had a body and face that made one want to pole-vault across the room and draw a heart shape across his pecs with semen -- was taking ice cubes out of champagne bucket on the bar and rubbing them on his and other peoples' nipples, perfectly aware that men and woman alike were swooning left and right in his muscle-bound wake. It was just those few who were so over the top, but in a place with 30 people, 10 of them being uber-party animals sets a tone of wickedness that would send George Bush running for his blankie.
So the dancing went on and on until the morn. Orange Penile Grabby Man made a brief but uneventful reappearance. The crowd eventually began to thin somewhat. The House room shut down, and since I could no longer ping-pong between rooms, and the music in the Hip Hop room wasn't consistent enough, I got a got a little bored. It was 5:30am and I had plans for the morning. I exchanged goodbyes with a few of my brothers and sisters in boogie I'd met along the way and collected my bag from the check-out.
I'd ruined a perfectly good t-shirt. I just got it the month before in Madrid, and now the decal on the front had its colour faded by that toxic combination of sweat and fake smoke, and the back had deep black lines in it from being rolled around on railings and poles. Sad, but worth it.
On my way home it was cold and raining. I was a little lost for a while, but I had the general direction of my hotel and flew casual. Just around a corner, right in the middle of the sidewalk in front of a shop, I found a young woman -- 20-something, blonde, very pretty -- sitting on a guy's shoulders, reaching up into a tree for something, while two friends looked on. I couldn't quite see what it was, something small on a dark blue ribbon, but she seemed very intent on getting it. I asked, "You need any help?" and they didn't answer, or didn't answer with much more than a grunt. She kept swinging her arms up at it in visible distress. It was only just too high for her to reach, making for a pathetic sight.
The shop they were in front of had a metal overhang sticking out of it. It was just above and to the right of her and ran all the way to almost above where I was standing. There it ended at a doorway which had an iron grate security door. I was distinctly unimpressed with the chivalry (and inventiveness) of these three guys, and a bit unimpressed with the politeness of the lot when I offered help. But I thought, what would Jesus do?
So I let out a little martyr's sigh and scaled the iron door up to the overhang. It was recessed and had filled with rainwater, so I had to do a little beam-walk across the high-edge at the front. I should have taken off my backpack, but I didn't fully trust leaving it with these guys. With the off-center weight, I nearly slipped off the steel in the rainy weather and it suddenly occurred to me how funny it would be if I fell off and broke my leg, and left these people with still no precious tree-item and a crippled tourist writhing underneath it screaming and shrieking like a little girl (as you know I would). How embarrassing would that be! It would serve them right for being impolite.
When I got to the branch and reached across I found a set of keys hanging off the blue ribbon. I grabbed it, handed it down to the girl, and then made my way back down. When I was off the building, she was off the guy, and she tackled me. She hugged me and kissed me on both cheeks and looked like she was going to cry. Apparently a good deed goes a long way. She had gotten her friend's keys stuck in the try, and they'd been trying to get them for "a long time". Suddenly was the nicest person in the world, and helped me find my way home by helping me with my map. Her friends -- including the owner of the keys -- nodded at me in mild appreciation. She asked me what I do. I said, "I sell software in the day, and at night, I go clubbing."
I reflected on the little moments that happen "in the big city". It's funny how your life just bumps briefly into someone else's. Having recently lost a pair of keys and had to get a locksmith to drill my door and replace the lock (click for the story), I thought how differently their night could've ended up if I'd not walked down that sidewalk.
The Jedi Clubber
"Hello! Good morning! How was it?"
"Excellent. Truly fucking excellent."
"Where'd you go?"
"M1."
"Fantastic. That's the best party in Stuttgart! It's the fourth one, you know?"
"Fourth?"
"Fourth M1. The first was closed about 8 years ago. The second closed on [some unexpectedly precise date, even the day of the week]." Obvious moment of deep emotion... "That was my M1."
"You're a fan?"
"Oh yeah. M1 is the best party in Stuttgart. The best! We used to party. All night me and my friends would go out to M1, then an afterparty at [someplace] until 2pm. They played the hardest house music you'll ever here there. Then I'd go straight to work in the hotel the next day and work until the evening."
"Straight from work without sleeping?"
"Yeah. But I'm old now!"
"Wow. How old are you?"
"About 31."
"Not so old."
"No, not so old. I can still party all night, that's no problem! But I can't go to work the next day."
"Well, that's better than I've ever been I think."
Laughs.
"Well, thanks for the recommendation and all the help man."
"Pleasure!"
"When does the restaurant open?"
"6:30"
"Great. I'm going to go wash up. I smell like death!"
Posted by Noz
at 12:01 AM BST
Updated: Thursday, July 21, 2005 2:50 PM BST