Noz Update - Madrid - Gays and Shopping, Who'da thought?
Mood:
sad
Now Playing: Law and Order opening credits...
Topic: Noz Update
Saturday - 12:12 28/05/2005 – Shop until You Drop a Load
Rachel slept until noon. I worked more on Boy Robot -- The S&M's latest track -- and searched for stuff to do in my trusty Lonely Planet. Spain gets one of the biggest sections being one of the "big 5" European countries/kingdoms (UK, Germany, France, Italy, Spain), as opposed to the "B list" countries like Portugal, Sweden, Greece, etc.,"C-list" Belgium, Croatia, or "M-list (miscellaneous) countries like Belarus or Luxembourg. (I like to get a little generalising and semi-random disparaging into every update, and having the Lonely P as support really helps!)
I'm flipping through this thing realising that 3 days in Madrid is both a joy and a tragedy. My interest in moving here has completely been renewed, and I realise that it's time to start putting away money and actually planning instead of nurturing the hope I'll be sacked at just the right time and handed a giant golden parachute. My friend Dan is planning his emigration to Canada a year in advance and it's making me think I've got to get my shit together; gotta get actually planning once I get the go-ahead from the UK Gov that I am on route to Passport-town.
Rachel's creamery-British skin got lightly toasted by the sun yesterday, so our mission Saturday is to find a big-ass hat (sombrero?) to shield her from the pounding rays.
Saturday Cont. - 09:24 29/05/2005
(Now Sunday morning, but I can tell you about yesterday). We went straight out to eat at one of the Lonely P's suggested places. El Gloria de Montera restaurant is right around the corner from El Gran Via metro station and offers good food in a stylish atmosphere for pennies a glass. Very uncharacteristically, I chose badly. I went for something ambiguous, "chicken and herbs with vegetables" because it was steak last night, and I knew it was going to be meat in a meat sauce with a big side of meat for dinner (and meat pudding for dessert). My dish turned out to be an un-marinated pair of chicken breasts with undercooked aubergine (eggplant). There were nice asparagus, but I had grilled asparagus as my started (which was nice). Rachel kicked my butt with her wicked salad and a big plate of tasty beef carpaccio. Lonely P strikes again.
We called up Anais, our friend's friend in Alicante who used to live in here, and asked where the mad shoppin' is at in Madrid. Luckily, we were on the corner of El Gran Via and Calle Fuencarral which are both lined with shops. Anais said El Gran Via has all the traditional stuff, and the ol' Staple of Spanish department stores: El Corte Ingles (woo!). That would've been better for finding a hat, but 5 minutes into the Quest for Rachel's Sombrero, we asked a guy running a newspaper stand where there was a general clothes market, hoping we'd find hats but other good stuff too. He pointed us to El Marcado Fuencarral where we had a blast for the rest of the day without leaving the shopping centre.
El Marcado Fuencarral is on Calle Fuencarral which is lined top-to-bottom with crazy-ass shops. It starts out all skater and surfer, with designer sunglasses and such, and descends slowly into metrosexual, hippie, gay, rock, goth, and out-right S&M gear. This wide and graduated spectrum all concentrated in one area provides a fantastic shopping experience - especially for people with pretty spectral tastes like Rachel and I. At the end of the street is "El Marcado Fuencarral" itself, which is 3 floors packed solid with funk. It's a come-all-ye-coolios gay/straight mix with every type of 13-30 fashion imaginable, all for reasonable prices. It was a paradise for people into t-shirts with funny slogans. Check out this shirt basically made for me: Click me.
I went a bit AWOL on Calle Fuencarral... I'm now the proud owner of several new shirts, t-shirts, and a pair of trousers which make me look like one of Britney Spears back-up dancers, if not the great BS herself. Who thought plumber's butt could be so stylish? Besides the BS pants, my masterpiece purchase was a top designed and made personally by one of the owners of one of the little clothes shops. It's done in a Chinese style, and when I put it on Rachel said, "You look like you're going to kick someone's ass in that." Sold.
In the basement floor of the Marcado, next to the bar, we found a super-hip hair salon in which Rachel took her do to the next level. For 20 minutes I had to play translator trying to navigate terminology like "highlights", "permanents", "banding", "dying", "bleaching", "tinting", etc. and their Spanish equivalents, which of course aren't direct mappings. We say, "highlighting", but the literal translation of, "alta luces" makes no sense, and vice-versa. It wasn't easy going, but we eventually managed to get Rachel exactly what she wanted.
We screwed off for a few hours to do some more shopping while they got ready. The JOY that is stores that all stay open until 9pm! We asked, "When do we come back?" They said, "We'll call you," i.e, fuck scheduling. I love Spain. Rachel and I shopped it up until she got set up in the chair, and we chatted for an hour with the hair chick – who was 2-weeks fresh into Madrid from Galecia in the north, and very cool – while Rachel got her locks reconstructed in the fashion of a Guns n' Roses groupie's.
Noz's Adventures in Cottage Country
Here's my best bit of the day: I had one of those weirdo experiences that happens on vacation. I was in the washroom at a urinal doing my thing. And as I'm turning around to go wash my hands, some other guy walks in. He makes eye contact with me just a little too long, and then goes up to the urinal. I was made a bit quizzical by the initial look he gave me, so I looked over at him while I was washing my hands. He's obviously got his trousers open, and I figure he's mid-act getting out Mr Bilbo to do his business. Yet, his elbow doesn't stop a-bobbin'. Soon it's been about 12 times as many motions as required to get your average or very enormous penis out from a pair of shorts, and the guy's still going. Then he turns around and makes eye contact again. I can't really describe his facial expression besides a non-committal look that said "And?" Basically, I got the message: "I'm not going to admit anything's out of the ordinary here until you do," and that if I did admit something was out of the ordinary, I was going to win the prize of the day!
Although you'd assume different, this was actually a new experience for me. I've never had quite such an invitation directed at me in such a public place. We were in the toilets of a shopping centre. It wasn't like we were in Greece or something...!
Slowed to that mystic pace one adopts when something bizarre is going on, I finished washing my hands trying to give the benefit of the doubt that this guy wasn't trying to snake-charm me, and while washing and then drying, he turned around an additional two times to make eye-contact with that expectant face. By the end, it was pretty much confirmed this was a highly-elegant and personalised invitation. I finished drying my hands and left.
After sitting with Rachel for another 10 minutes, my curiosity got the better of me. Like, this guy eyes someone he fancies and begins the dance of the 5 fingers up against a urinal to delicately woo them, right? What happens if their intended declines? Do they wait for the next one? If they do find one, what do they do? I guess the question is also where do they go? Do they just spin round (or not spin around, I guess...) right there in front of the hand soap, or do they requisition a stall, or what? I told Rachel, "I'm going to see if Mr Wanky has gotten any action," and I went back to the washroom. There he was, poised as before. I specifically didn't make eye contact this time, because it's rude to be a tease, and I made a smooth and seamless getaway: Having ducked into the washroom, I checked that the stall nearest the door was vacant, should I have an emergency, confirmed there was sufficient water pressure in the taps, and then turned on my heel and walked out again. Obviously, this was a totally everyday bathroom visit, impossible to confuse with a base and uncouth freak-watching expedition. Ah, life in the big city...
And Back Again
From one end of the social spectrum to the other, dinner was again at El Senador. This time we had mixed grilled vegetables and smoked salmon croquettes to start - excellent - and Ox "al la piedra", for the main. The vegetables were done to perfection with a very light olive oil and herb dressing. The croquettes were also quite subtle, served with a little pile of "microfries": tiny shavings of potato deep fried so it was like a cross between a crisp and a chip (fry). Everything was dusted with rock salt (everything in all of Madrid I think gets dusted in rock salt, lest you accidentally ingest something unsalted)
The meat was DEELISH. They take a sirloin fillet, marinate it thoroughly, and then flash it in a hot oven to seal in the juices. Then they thin slice it and serve it basically raw on a platter. In the centre of your table they place a heated stone plate ("a la piedra" means "on the stone"), like a Chinese hot plate, with some rock sea salt sprinkled on top. You then finish frying the meat at the table to your liking. The first time I tried it, I thought it was a bit odd to just be eating nothing but meat for the main course with not so much as a potato to go with it. Rachel had the same reaction. I however, having been there done that, was delighted. We polished off an entire platter of succulent strips of ox before tottering off to the ice cream shop for raspberry and mango sorbet just before midnight.
The skies of Madrid that night were purple, and the clouds were red. The whole world had a rosy glow. If I hadn't seen it and I was reading this I'd think I was being metaphorical, but we have the photos to prove it. We stopped in front of the Basilica Pontificia de San Miguel on the way home and collected evidence.
Although this is my third time in Madrid, it’s my first vacation here, and my first time in the spring. Rachel and I have often discussed this trip the impact of weather on culture, or even just our lives as individuals, and it seems no coincidence that the weather in the UK seems to be saying, "Life is hard and brutal, and you must work every day to survive. Early to bed, early to rise, makes a man healthy, wealthy and a social non-event" and the weather in Madrid seems to wrap its arms around you and say, "I know – and I’m sorry – that sometimes I am very rough with you, but in the end, I will always love and support your health and happiness".
The warm breezes at one in the morning allow you to wear a given outfit, go out for an afternoon of shopping or dinner, or what have you, and stay out until the wee hours without having to run home to seek shelter. The sun – when taken wisely – seems to be feeding your skin vitality directly. Everything here makes us feel so alive.
On the way home, we went back to the masseurs for some more brutalisation. This time we were kinda broke, and Rachel’s shoulders were still sore from the first time, so we had to disappoint them with only a small engagement. They tried very (very!) enthusiastically to up-sell us, but when then they finally realised I was serious that we were out of money and that Rachel wasn’t interested, we got nice but short treatment and went on our merry way. They were a bit disappointed, but we were delighted.
Sunday 13:29 29/05/2005 - On the train to Alicante
We’re in coach, but there is more leg room than I need, and an in-trip movie (Asterix and Obelix the film! With Gerard Depardue and Laetitia Casta. Laetitia Casta, man, apparently not looking her best here, but can anyone say racked and stacked? There’s a party in my pants and everyone’s slipping around on the floor on their way to the drinks table).
The train seems a bit too good to be true. I’ve got a little bin all to myself; there’s a movie and nature a documentary available for my viewing pleasure; I’ve got so much leg room I am having trouble reaching my laptop and table that are mounted in the seat in front; it’s clean, well lit, and comfortable; and there’s a lady coming round handing out free headphones for the movie, and candies. If this is coach, I’m figuring first class has free Swedish massage and Salsa classes.
Stuff we missed in Madrid:
Parco del Retiro
Plaza de Espana
Opera (Palacio Real)
El Prado
Tyssen
Posted by Noz
at 12:01 AM BST
Updated: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 6:24 PM BST